This was my third visit to Costa Rica. I was eager to return after an exciting trip in 2008 and my first trip in 2005. I was determined to visit during the "peak" wildlife window for Corcovado National Park (mid-January through February) when trees are producing copious amounts of fruit for the animals. Unfortunately, mother nature didn't cooperate. An unseasonably dry spell had delayed the fruit production and animals were not quite as abundant as expected.
Still, it was a good trip! I paid my first visit to La Selva Biological Station, which was a great place for bird and herp viewing, followed by a few days in Corcovado. |
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Getting There - I flew from Seattle to San Jose, Costa Rica via Dallas on American Airlines. Travel to and from La Selva was in a chartered van (arranged by Costa Rica Expeditions, see below). To get to the Osa I once again flew on a small plane, this time to Drake Bay. My flight back from Drake was on an even smaller chartered plane, which was necessary since the airline doesn't fly there every day. I chose to charter my own boat to get from Drake out to Sirena Station in Corcovado, which saved a day's worth of hiking through the hot and humid jungle laden with gear.
These charters did add up. There are certainly less expensive ways to handle this transportation, including simply flying on dates when the airline is operating, and taking one of the group water taxis from Drake (something I wasn't aware of before I made my arrangements).
When I Went - As mentioned, I tried to target the fruiting season, which brings out monkeys, peccaries, birds and other creatures... as well as their predators. This trip was in mid-February, and though the timing didn't work out this time around, it still seems like a good time to go (better than dealing with the torrential downpours during my November trip). |
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Costa Rica Expeditions - I booked most of my trip through Costa Rica Expeditions for the sake of convenience. CRE was able to book my flights (including the charter flight from Drake to SJ), most hotels, transfers and most importantly, my stay and food arrangements at Sirena. They met me at the airport, and the entire staff that I came in contact with was a pleasure to work with.
In La Selva I was assigned a staff guide, whose services I found adequate once he realized we didn't have to go through the regular educational spiel normally reserved for day tours. In Corcovado I once again employed the services of Felipe Arias, my guide from the 2008 trip and one of the best guides I've had during my travels.
Web: http://www.costaricaexpeditions.com |
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Most lodging was arranged by Costa Rica Expeditions. My stays at La Selva and Sirena Station in Corcovado were at the station facilities, but I also had to make hotel stops at the beginning, middle and end of the trip.
Hotel Don Carlos, San Jose - Located in downtown San Jose, near the Jade Museum. Friendly staff, accomodations ranging from smaller single rooms to larger suites. Also has Internet terminals and a neighboring cafe.
Web: http://www.doncarloshotel.com/
La Selva Biological Station - La Selva is usually home to dozens of visiting students and researchers. It's a busy place. Note that at La Selva you're likely to be placed in one of the more private cabins away from the student bunks, which are a good kilometer or more away from the dining facilities. It's a long way to haul luggage, but the walk is worthwhile for the bountiful birdlife you'll see along the way.
Vista Drake, Drake Bay - I had to stay here on my way out to Corcovado. Emilio and family are gracious hosts, and the lodge provides both tent facilities and indoor bedding, as well as meal services and an internet cafe with a pretty good connection. They can also help with transportation arrangements.
Web: http://www.vistadrake.com/
Sirena Ranger Station, Corcovado - This is rustic lodging. Your options are to reserve a bunk or sleep in your own tent (a large covered platform is set aside for tent campers). You can also make reservations to have your meals cooked for you. However, please note that all reservations should be made well in advance (at least a month), and in some cases you have to plan precisely and make sure to book in the appropriate window (they may not take reservations too far in advance). Note that a maximimum four night stay is allowed at Sirena Station.
If you are making arrangements on your own, you will be required to pick up your permits at the park office in Puerto Jimenez. I highly recommend making things a bit easier by having an outfit such as Costa Rica Expeditions make the arrangements for you (especially to ensure you can reserve food, if you don't plan to cook on your own).
The hike into Sirena is a long one, no matter which side you come in from. From the La Leona (Carate) side, it can take 5-6 hours or longer. Be prepared for heat and humidity. Though much of the hike in is made on forest trails, there are long stretches of open beach, which can get scorching hot at midday. Drink plenty of water. Coming in from Drake Bay or Los Patos can be an even longer hike. From Los Patos, it's 30+ kilometers (note that the Los Patos ranger station is a good 13-15km from where you leave your car, meaning it's another 18km or so to Sirena). Perhaps the easiest option to get to Sirena is to take a boat from Drake Bay (as I did on this trip). You can also fly into Sirena, but it's pretty expensive.
Come Prepared! Sirena's facilities are very basic. Make sure you pack in adequate supplies, including toilet paper, ziploc bags, food supplies, flash light, first aid, iodine tablets or water filters, mosquito netting, sun screen and bug repellant. Don't forget soap and shampoo. You also take everything out that you bring in (which is why ziplocs are a good idea). Sirena can't handle your garbage. |
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Please refer to my 2008 Trip Summary for packing details, though note that that trip was during the wet season. During the January-February dryer season rubber boots weren't necessary. |
Please refer to my 2008 Trip Summary for photo equipment details. Nearly everything was the same this time, except for the addition of the Canon 7D and the fact I actually had my tripod this time around. |
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