I originally filed this report following my 2009/10 trip to Argentina and Chile.  In 2016 I returned to Chile to scout for pumas.  Some of the information below has been updated based on this latest visit.

Patagonia has been somewhere on my list of intriguing travel destinations for quite a while. So when it was time to choose a honeymoon destination to visit during a December/January window, it seemed like a good choice.

We set aside two weeks and hoped to visit a number of wildlife-rich areas and explore some of dramatic mountain scenery.  Not everything went as expected (to say the least), but the trip was a good introduction to a fascinating place.

During my 2016 trip, I returned to Torres del Paine in southern Chile and had a much more successful trip, with numerous puma sightings.  This will be a featured destination for a future photo tour.

Peninsula Valdes

See penguins and other wildlife on Peninsula Valdes.

Located about a third of the way down Argentina’s Atlantic Coast, this flat piece of land is famous for its wildlife. Unfortunately, your timing has to be good (see When We Went below). Valdes is most famous for its orcas, which beach themselves purposely in an attempt to snatch sea lions from the surf. It’s also a haven for the endangered southern right whale and is home to the only continental breeding ground for massive southern elephant seals in South America. There’s plenty of smaller stuff to see as well: Magellanic penguins, which have a beachfront colony you can get quite close to, armadillos, foxes, guanacos and the ostrich-like rhea. For a first-time visitor to Patagonia, this place is a nice introduction to several new types of animals. To really make the most of it though, you really need to time your visit properly for the orcas, whales and seals.

Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego)

An interesting and rugged landscape, and the main launching point for most Antarctica excursions. Even if you’re not heading further south from here, there are several interesting options to explore. A number of sea excursions are available, many involving boat trips to the many islands that dot the Beagle Channel.

A trip to Isla H gives you a nice close-up view of the colorful and hearty plant species that survive in this harsh environment, as well as a remarkably close view of a rock cormorant rookery. Estancia Harberton, and old ranch out in hills away from town gives you a look at how earlier settlers lived and worked in Tierra del Fuego, and also gives you access to an island full of Magellanic and gentoo penguins. We found Haberton a bit disappointing. What was advertised as at least a half-day tour of the ranch and island instead involved an hour-and-a-half bus ride out followed by the hour-long penguin island tour (the gentoos aren’t close), followed by a bus ride back to town. There was no tour or exploration of the ranch itself.

One of the highlights of Ushuaia is the Lapataia Forest, part of Tierra del Fuego National Park. This beautiful woodland offers several easy walks and abundant birdlife, including the iconic Magellanic woodpecker. We missed out on seeing this species, but we were fortunate to spot an austral pygmy owl, one of several birds of prey present in the park. Culpeos (fox-like wild dogs) and rabbits are also common.

Ushuaia itself reminded me of a European mountain resort town. Narrow streets built into a steep hillside, with plenty of hotels, shops and eateries for the tourists.

El Calafate

A home base for tourists and adventurers heading in a variety of directions. This town in located on the shores of Lago Argentino. Plenty of stores and restaurants to pick from, but also plenty of activities (most of which require some form of motorized transportation to reach). The town itself has a small nature preserve at Laguna Nimez, home to various aquatic birds, including flocks of Chilean flamingos.

Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the main draws for visitors to Calafate. It’s 80km away, but easily reachable by car or bus. You will pay a fee to enter Los Glaciares National Park. Look for Magellanic woodpeckers and condors as you drive through the park, and even as you head out on the walkways to the Glacier. Perito Moreno is South America’s most famous glacier, and the views of its massive wall are up close and personal. Visitors have the option of paying for a boat ride for an even closer view of the jagged wall of ice. If you’re lucky, you may witness some calving as the evolving glacier splits apart. It’s more likely that you’ll hear the ice cracking apart before you see it. By the way, avoid the restaurant in the parking lot where you walk out to the glacier viewpoint (pack your own lunch). The service there was the worst we encountered during the entire trip.

Calafate is also a jumping-off point for excursions to Estancia Christina (see Lodging), Chalten and Torres del Paine.

Chalten

The view from Chalten is stunning on a clear day.

There’s one main reason to visit this small town: the mountains. A few hours drive from Calafate, this relatively young town (established in the mid-80s) lies in the shadow of Mt. Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, two of the more famous peaks in the Andes. The town itself is full of backpackers and adventurers heading off on their next hike or climb. Nothing too exciting to speak of, though the Wafelria is definitely worth a visit for a late breakfast. There are plenty of internet cafes and finally there’s an ATM here.

There are several hikes worth doing in the park. My favorite was the Fitz Roy Viewpoint hike. A couple miles each way, it takes you to one of the most breathtaking views on earth, a wide valley that leads right up to the looming peak of Mt. Fitz Roy.

Note that it’s definitely worth the effort to wake up early and catch sunrise on the face of the mountains… if the sun actually appears (we weren’t lucky). Try to do at least one early morning hike or get to a nice viewpoint to soak in the view. If you choose to hike before dawn, watch out for the trailside skunks!

Torres del Paine

Another must-see in Patagonia is this famous national park just over the border in Chile. Like Chalten, this is an area famous for its giant towers. You can find an awe-inspiring view almost anywhere in Paine, which is a hiker’s paradise. Try to get out and hit the trail at least once.

See wild pumas in Torres del Paine!

If you attempt the hike to the Torres viewpoint, note it’s best stay overnight halfway up in one of the two refuges (hostels) along the trail. You’ll have to start early the next morning to reach the peaks by sunrise, which could mean a 2:30am wakeup time. The hike itself, especially the last leg, is quite steep. The hike back to the parking lot can be done in one day.

Paine is home to a variety of wildlife. In the rolling hillsides and mountain valleys it’s not always easy to see (except for the ever-present guanacos), but there are some interesting species here, including gray fox, Andean condor, skunk, armadillo… and it’s the best place in the world to see a puma.  It’s still a rare animal to spot, but this is one of the better areas to see them due to the high density of prey species found here.  The park service has limited off-trail exploration, so finding them within the park boundaries is a bit more of a challenge.  With the right guide, you’ll have better luck and may also be allowed to explore private land next to the park to increase your chances.

I will be leading a puma photo tour in this region.  Check the Workshops and Tours page for more information.

More photos from Patagonia will be available soon.

It’s difficult to remember all the places we stayed, but I’ll try!

Posada Piramides, Puerto Pirámides

A plain hotel in this tiny beachfront town on Peninsula Valdes. The staff is helpful and the place also doubles as a restaurant. Some of the rooms are fairly close to the road and the outdoor eating area, so the lights and activity at night may be bothersome to light sleepers.

Patagonia Jarke, Ushuaia

This was the best place we stayed during the trip. What used to be separate buildings perched on a steep hillside close to “downtown,” this hotel is now on staggered expanse covering 3-4 stories. Very nice rooms, great owners and a killer view of Ushuaia’s harbor, this is a great choice that’s close to the action.

Web: http://www.hosteriapatagoniaj.com/

Hosteria La Estepa, El Calafate

A sprawling ranch house, for a lack of a better description. Again, lodging was fine here. The biggest issue is that it’s located way on the outskirts of town, so if you’re staying here it’s best to have your own car. They do serve food, but require notice well in advance. The internet connection here is quite flaky. If you’re stuck with no car and no internet, you can always spend your time browsing the hundreds of old National Geographics lying around.

Web: http://www.hosterialaestepa.com/

Estancia Cristina

“One of the remotest spots in South America,” as described by the people who helped plan our trip. It’s definitely out there, only reachable by a boat that takes you up to the northern reaches of Lago Argentino. Don’t come here for wildlife. Period. Come here if you want some solitude and relaxation. There are some limited activities available, mainly hikes or horseback rides. The hike that takes you past the Glaciar Upsala viewpoint is full of spectacular views and a dynamic landscape that was once all under glacial ice. It is a longer hike (around 10km), though it’s all downhill.

Web: http://www.estanciacristina.com/

El Paraiso, Chalten

Basic accomodation at the doorstep of Mt. Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Within walking distance of the town’s main drag.

Web: http://www.elchalten.com/elparaiso/

Hosteria Pehoe, Torres del Paine

Located on its own island, which can only be accessed via a long footbridge, this hotel has a great view of the jagged peaks that make this park famous. As a result, it’s expensive and the food in particular is severely overpriced.  As of 2016, the food remained vastly overpriced, though on the plus side they do have wireless internet in the lobby.

Web: http://www.pehoe.cl/

Though it was technically summer time in the southern hemisphere, we were traveling to some extreme locations… some pretty far south, some pretty high up and all pretty windy to an extent. We needed to be prepared for all sorts of weather, so everything from long underwear and a warm hat to sunscreen was needed.

As always, we brought our my handy travel compressor bags to save space. Since we were mainly traveling by air, boat or car, suitcases may have sufficed, but we stuck with our usual duffel bag and backpack combo.

During my latest visit, gear was mostly packed in my ThinkTank StreetWalker HD pack, but I also brought along my ThinkTank Skin belt and pouch system, which was needed during the various hikes and excursions during the trip.

Since my main goal was to see and photograph wildlife, with a secondary emphasis on landscapes, I had my full complement of gear. My wife and I shared the 100-400 and 70-200, and it was good to have both after one of the lenses was damaged early in the trip. During the more serious hikes, the 500 and Wimberley head stayed locked in the car.  2016 Update: During my puma trip I brought my new 600mm lens, along with my 100-400mm (which would have been interchangeable with my 70-200) and 24-70mm lenses.